(Bloomberg Businessweek) -- A total of 49 leading brands exhibited at this year's Watches and Wonders expo in Geneva, with more companies crammed into hotel suites and lobbies throughout the Swiss city. It's a lot of timepieces to take in, but here are the most interesting debuts, along with who you're most likely to see wearing one.
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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date The arc of the date counter at the top of the electric-blue dial and the celestial complication combine to turn this 41mm steel Overseas from a fairly traditional sports watch for folks on the finance desk into something more attention-grabbing.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute ChronographThis year Jaeger-LeCoultre went all-in on models in the Reverso line, a brand signature wherein a first watch face can be flipped over to reveal a second. Here, a dramatic open-face chronograph dial hides on the reverse of a standard time-only one.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel TimeAn exquisite way to embrace a continental-time mindset, this 24-hour design features 44 numerals and indicators, each hand-filled with luminescent material. Especially in person, it's stunning; the segmented dial is a real head-turner.
Piaget SautoirThis style of pendant watch looks modern, but it's been around for more than 100 years. Each link on the chain is worked by hand from a single gold wire, taking about 130 hours to build. It'll ensure the wearer stands out at any event—and always knows when it's time to hop to the next. (The dial is flipped upside down so only they can read it.)
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40The legendary Gerald Genta designed IWC's long-discontinued Ingenieur in 1976—the same year he did Patek's Nautilus. This new-old model fits three current industry fads: steel sports watches with integrated bracelets, historic reissues and vibrant dials.
Tudor Black Bay 54Smaller watches are becoming all the rage, after years of hefty steel chonkers hogging the spotlight. One of the most elegant executions we saw was Tudor's unisex Black Bay 54. The domed sapphire crystal, golden color flourishes and 37mm size give it a mature, vintage-cool feel.
Grand Seiko TentagraphJapan's Grand Seiko is so serious about accurate timekeeping, the brand has never done a mechanical chronograph—until now. The high-density titanium Tentagraph (here in a lovely blue) brings together high-beat precision and three days of reserve power.
Rolex Platinum DaytonaIn honor of the model's 60th anniversary, Rolex redesigned its Daytona line of chronographs. The highest-end version in 2023 is a heavy platinum edition with a chocolate bezel, sapphire caseback and ice-blue dial. Wearing it is a workout, just to lift your wrist.
Chanel J12 CyberneticThis two-tone watch looks just as cool in person as it does in pictures. The black ceramic-and-steel case, which bleeds into a white ceramic pixelated pattern, houses a self-winding mechanical movement, so it may just outlast your investments in NFTs.
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus ChronographIt took the German masters of complication six years to develop this first self-winding chronograph. After you've timed something and go to reset the chrono, the red seconds counter does a neat trick: It speedily rewinds back to start by as many turns as it recorded.
Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton The French maison continues to dive into its history with early aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Here, the , an aircraft designed by the pilot, appears on a micro-rotor on the skeletonized dial. Combined with the blue lacquer accents, it's a soaring feat of design.
Oris ProPilot X Kermit EditionIn an enviable partnership with the actual Muppets, Oris created a titanium watch with a vibrant lime-green dial and a cute surprise: At 6 o'clock, in the little rectangular indicator where you might expect to see the date, you'll find Kermit the Frog's smiling face instead.
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