Nepal's Ban On Solo Climbs On Mount Everest, Other 8,000-Metre Peaks Comes Into Effect

Nepal has brought into force a change to its mountaineering rules from today (Sep. 1), formally ending solo expeditions to the world’s highest peaks and introducing a revised fee structure for climbers.

The regulations, announced earlier this year in the Sixth Amendment to Nepal’s Mountaineering Regulation and published in the Nepal Gazette, make it mandatory for climbers to have professional support on all mountains rising above 8,000 metres.

“When climbing a mountain peak with an altitude of more than 8,000 metres, every two members of the mountaineering team must be accompanied by at least one altitude worker or mountain guide,” the new rule states. For other mountains, each team is required to have at least one mountain guide with them,” the new rules mandate.

According to ANI, the directive applies to all 14 peaks in the world that exceed 8,000 metres, including Mount Everest. The move puts an end to independent expeditions, regardless of whether climbers use the alpine or the traditional expedition style.

Apart from the ban on solo climbs, Nepal has also revised the climbing royalty, raising the fees for foreign mountaineers. The cost of securing a permit to scale Everest through the south route during the popular spring season has increased from $11,000 (around Rs 9.70 lakh) to $15,000 (around Rs 13.22 lakh) per climber.

For autumn expeditions, which run from September to November, fees have risen to $7,500 (Rs 6.61 lakh) from $5,500 (roughly Rs 4.85 lakh), while winter and monsoon climbs will now cost $3,750 (around Rs 3.31 lakh), up from USD 2,750 (around Rs 2.42 lakh)

Other peaks above 8,000 metres have also become costlier. According to ANI, the spring fee has increased from $1,800 (Rs 1.59 lakh) to $3,000 (Rs 2.64 lakh), autumn from $900 (around Rs 79,300) to $1,500 (Rs 1.32 lakh), and both winter and monsoon from $450 (around Rs 40,000) to $750 (around Rs 66,000).

For Nepali climbers, the fee to take the standard Everest route in spring has doubled to NPR 1,50,000 (around Rs 94,000). The last major revision was in 2015.

The regulations go beyond fees and guiding requirements. Family members of mountaineers, guides and base camp workers have been barred from living at the base camp, though exceptions of up to two days may be granted with prior permission from the tourism department.

High-altitude guides have been tasked with “self-declaring” their clients’ successful summits. Expedition companies and liaison officers must now submit photographs showing the climber’s face clearly against the mountain backdrop as proof before certificates are issued, ANI reported.

In recognition of the role played by Sherpas and other workers, the government has also ordered pay hikes.

Nepal has also introduced stricter environmental obligations. All climbers are now required to bring back their rubbish, including human waste, to the base camp. Biodegradable bags will be issued to facilitate collection and disposal at lower altitudes.