Bhang Ki Bhujiya, Cross-Dressing Men And Other Traditions — A Peek At Rajasthan's Unique Holi Celebrations

The royal palaces open up. Devotional songs are sung throughout the day in temples, pichkaris and water balloons await one around the corner. Processions of people, called Ger or Gevar (not Ghevar), fill up entire streets like a sea of kesariya safa, and Marwadi songs recorded by local artists blare on loudspeakers — all painting a picture common to Holi in Rajasthan.

When it comes to celebrating Holi, Rajasthan's vibrant culture has tales to tell. Quite literally. Bikaner’s tradition of Rammat, for example, is a form of drama that is popular during the month of Holi, a cultural innovation that involves folk dance, religious elements like the dressing up of Mata ji, and various entertaining characters on stage at midnight, up until early morning. Elaborate, caricaturish moustaches, hyper feminine make-up, gigantic hats, excessive jewellery — all seem normal on men even weeks ahead of Holi. Every chowk has its own Rammat — Bikaner's traditional folk theatre performance. Some famous ones include the Shehzadi Nautanki Rammat, Fakkad Data Rammat and the Amar Singh Rathode Rammat.

One of the most anticipated traditions and a highlight for Bikaner is the Harsho Vyaso ka khel. Held every year at Mohta Chowk, this involves Dolchi maar khel where men are split in teams according to the families originating from the chowk. From toddlers to the eldest men of the family, everyone who wishes to be a part can come and join. They hit each other with dolchis (water cans) the entire afternoon.

Men dress up as women days before Holi. The famous Holi ki mazaak involves cross dressing and high definition makeup. Finding people from your family dressed as blonde divas in mini dresses (or even lehenga) — who you later find out is a man — is common. People participate in the festivity by staying up all night, eagerly waiting for the traditional sweets and bhang ke bhujiya during the month.

The Tani Tod Holi is also a yearly practice. Faganiya Football, with its carnivalesque elements, is an entertaining event where people dress up as famous individuals (politicians, actresses, global personalities) and play football while gulaal spreads in air.

Gangaur is a more women-centric element. Fifteen-sixteen days of worshipping Gangaur ends with a fair, and young girls and women dress up and sing traditional Gangaur songs every day. All over Rajasthan, Gangaur is celebrated in styles and forms important to the cities.

Jodhpur observes a grand celebration of Gangaur, with people out on the streets the entire night. People peek out from terraces to see the beautifully dressed bejeweled idol of the goddess. Even the capital city, Jaipur, is decorated and holds large processions, accompanied by folk songs and dancing.

But Holi isn't just a local affair in Rajasthan. While many places have traditions and practices specific to them, Pushkar invites tourists from across the world. The famous Brahma temple is crowded and Pushkar’s nights are spent in music, dance, and colours. With a touch of modernity and youth through its concerts, it balances the traditional aspects of the festival.

Art, dance, drama, food, music, devotion — all are inherent to Rajasthan’s celebration of this colourful festival.

The author, Harshita Vyas, is a literature scholar from Bikaner who writes for Medium.