Fair & Lovely Via IV: How Glutathione Is Becoming Mainstream

After years of watching ludicrously fake promises on late-night teleshopping networks, Indians seem to have got what they wanted—an elixir that makes skin fairer. Glutathione administered intravenously has made many Indians look as good as an Insta filter—in flesh and blood. 

“There has been a noticeable increase in the popularity of glutathione treatments for skin lightening in India. While exact statistics are scarce, the growing demand is evident from the proliferation of wellness clinics and dermatology centers offering these treatments in major cities like Mumbai, Delhi, and Bangalore,” said Dr. Rashmi Sharma, dermatology consultant at Fortis Memorial Research Institute, Gurugram. 

Popularised by influencers, backed by popular actresses—the fad has hit the normal population. “This growth is being driven by the popularity of aesthetic treatments, social media usage, and an increasing preference towards fairer skin,” according to Dr. Ruben Bhasin Passi, consultant dermatologist at CK Birla Hospital in Gurugram. 

It comes at a pricey bill too. An average session of glutathione costs Rs 25,000 per session, though a few clinics might do it at a lower price too. A few others even offer packaged deals as well. 

As per Dr. Komal Gundewar, a skin specialist from Navi Mumbai, on an average, it takes 15-20 sessions, administered once a week to achieve the ‘glow’ or brightness effect on skin. It removes pigmentation, uneven skin tone and a few even claim that it clears inflamed patches on the skin. 

“It does work, and I have seen an improvement in skin texture too,” said Dr. Gundewar. Like always, there is a catch to this almost magic remedy — the glow fades eventually. A consumer must take the treatment at least once in a year to hold on to it. That’s around Rs 3.7-4 lakh per annum. 

Glutathione is an antioxidant, and has a detoxification effect. It’s also naturally produced in the liver, which prevents cellular damage and also aids metabolic processes. It was originally given to cancer patients to slow progress of the disease and when its effect on skin was observed, it was used as a supplement. 

“There is no clinical data to support the claims. There is some data for Glutathione’s effect against non-alcoholic fatty liver disease, but it’s very little. It’s being given out on a 'Do No Harm' basis,” informed Dr. Nagraj G Huilgol, consultant, radiation oncology at Nanavati Max Institute of Cancer Care. 

Doctors, however, insist that Glutathione is the fad of the season and many others like Vitamin C etc., too, have antioxidant properties—though without such quick and clear effects. Another growing fad is Glutathione or other antioxidants mixed with various minerals and vitamins via IV, taken for anti-ageing properties as well. 

While it seems to have an impact, it does not produce dramatic results as seen in the case of certain actors on screen etc. “Its cosmetic effects are not tested and there is no guarantee either,” said Dr. Huigol. 

A lot of experts, however, insist that ‘glow’ is an after-effect of physical and mental wellbeing — and is not just skin deep. While Glutathione along with other oxidants can bring health back to the face, a drastic change from dark to light skin is not possible nor has it been experienced. Yet, there is no dearth of influencers goading a population of brown people to go lighten even if it’s by a shade or even if it’s temporary.  

While little harm has been reported until now, the treatments might also come with side-effects like allergic reaction, itching, rash, redness, discomfort, some people complain of giddiness and nausea. “A few dermatologists have seen patients with adverse effects from self-administered infusions,” says Dr. Passi. 

The real threat, however, also comes from the fact that there is little data to back its short as well as long-term effects. A few doctors pointed out that its long-term adverse effects could be liver dysfunction, kidney toxicity, and in rare cases, anaphylaxis. Long-term use has been linked to reduced zinc levels in the body. 

“Due to the lack of standardised dosing protocols, the risk of misuse and associated complications increases,” explains Dr. Sharma. 

Apart from self-administration, the trouble with fad-festered users is that unlicensed clinics as well as a growing number of wellness centers administer it with or without the presence of a licensed doctor or a dermatologist. While doctors can handle any complications, a few clinics or centers lack the expertise or medical infrastructure to handle them in an effective way. 

The regulation of this barely-tested product is also blurry, which is giving wings to consumers as well as companies—making it a regulatory loophole. 

“In India, oral glutathione supplements are classified as food supplements under the Prevention of Food Adulteration Act and are excluded from the purview of the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940. However, the use of injectable glutathione for skin lightening is not approved by the Drug Controller General of India and lacks standardised guidelines, making its regulation ambiguous,” said Dr. Sharma. 

Dr. Passi says that these procedures should ideally only be carried out by trained medical professionals in sterile, controlled settings. But in reality it doesn’t hold. Also, the business of beauty is burgeoning. 

There is a lot of VC money chasing the business of beauty, looks and fitness, in addition to the innumerable beauty and personal care brands chasing GenZs as well as others. As per a report by Praxis, beauty treatments as well as beauty centers grew at breakneck speed of 20-25% each from 2016 to 2022. 

More specifically, the Indian anti-aging market, which includes skin-lightening treatments, reached $2.5 billion in 2024, as per consulting firm IMARC Group. It’s projected to grow at a compounded annual growth rate of 5.5% to reach $4 billion by 2033. 

Doctors hold on to hope that a few regulations might come in for such new-age procedures to rein in unlicensed use as well as self-administration. 

Katya Naidu is a senior business journalist who writes about equity markets, startups, energy, infrastructure, real estate and healthcare.